世界城市博览(20)Caracas(委内瑞拉)

ThecapitalofVenezuelaisahuge,vibrantandenergeticcitybuiltontremendouswealthanddesperatepoverty.Gravityisequallydefiedbythecity’sthrustingtowersofsteelandglassandtheteetering(摇摇欲坠的)shantytowns(简陋的棚屋)thatcoverthecity’ssurroundinghills.
Ascosmopolitanandcaptivatingasitcanbedepressing,Caracashasalltheassetsofabigcity-greatrestaurants,plushhotels(豪华饭店),theatre,museums,nightlife,shopping-andmanyoftheproblems-pettycrime,grindingpoverty,pollutionandthelossofheritage.
It’sanoil-moneyplaceoftrafficjamsandprogressiveculture,theunquestionedcentreofthecountry’spolitical,scientific,cultural,intellectualandeducationallife.It’sashowcaseofmodernarchitecture,flauntingpublicsculptures,mosaicsandmuralsateveryturn.ItenjoysaperfectpositionontheCaribbeancoast,andisthegatewaytotheAndes(安第斯山脉)andtheAmazon(亚马逊河).
AnytimeisafinetimetovisitCaracas.Thecityenjoysadryclimateandtemperaturesaremildandsteady.VenezuelansgoonawhirlwindvisitationoffriendsandfamilyatChristmas,CarnavalandEaster,soavoidingtheresultingtransportandaccommodationmayhemcouldbeafactorindecidingwhentovisit.
ThecityofCaracasdatesbackto1560,whenintrepidFranciscoFajardoheadedsouthfromtheSpanishcolonyonIsladeMargarita(马格丽塔岛),40km(25mi)offshore,anddiscoveredtheverdantvalleythatistodayentirelytakenupbythemassivemetropolis.FajardofoundedasettlementcalledSanFrancisco,buttheToromaimaIndianswholivedinthevalleyobjectedtotheSpaniards’incursions.ForsixyearstheIndianslaunchedaseriesofattacksagainstthesettlement,andthegovernoroftheprovincerespondedbyorderingthecompleteconquestofthevalley.OnJuly25,1567,thegovernor’sexpeditionarytroop(远征队)decisivelyovercameIndianresistanceandreestablishedthesettlement,namingitSantiagodeLeóndeCaracas:’Santiago’afterthepatronsaint(守护神)ofSpain,’León’aftertheprovincialgovernor,and’Caracas’afterthecoastalregion’sleasttroublesomeIndiangroup.
Caracaswaselectedastheadministrativeseatofthecolonyin1577,becomingthethirdandfinalcapitalofVenezuela.Twentyyearsafteritsestablishment,Caracasconsistedof60familiesandrangedfor25blockssurroundingthePlazaMayor.Developmentwashinderedbyconstantsetbacks:pirateattacksleftthecitysackedandrazed,andsubsequentreconstructionwasdestroyedbyearthquake.
Caracasconsolidateditspositionoverthenexttwocenturies,andthecitygavebirthtotwoofVenezuela’smostfamoussons:FranciscoMiranda,whopavedthewayforindependence,wasbornin1750;andSimón’ElLibertador’Bolívar,whorealizedMiranda’sdream,wasbornin1783.Mirandawasinvolvedinthe1810denouncingoftheSpanishgovernor,andtheformationofareplacementSupremeJunta.Followingayear-longpoliticalstruggle,Venezuela’sindependencewasdeclaredonJuly5,1811,butSpaindidn’trecognizeVenezuela’ssovereigntyuntil1845.
Sincethe1950s,Caracas’populationhassoaredfromaround400,000toalmostfivemillion.Thecitysufferedasevereeconomicdeclineinthe1980sand90s,andthethousandsofruraldwellerswhorushedtofindwealthinthebigmetropolisnowleadaprecarious(不稳定的)hand-to-mouthexistenceintheramshacklehutsthatcoverthesteephillssurroundingthecitycenter.Theftandarmedrobberyareincreasinglyafactoflife.WorsewastocomeonDecember15,1999,whendisastrousmudslides(泥石流)devastateda100km(62mi)swatheoftheLitoralCentral,thecoastalareajustnorthofCaracas.Theexceptionallyhighrainfallthatcausedthedisasterisestimatedtooccuronlyonceinathousandyearsinthisregion.BelievedtobeSouthAmerica’sworstnaturaldisasterinrecentmemory,themudslideskilledbetween30and50thousandpeople,andmade150,000homeless.Entirebeachesandshantytownsvanished,thecolonialtownofLaGuaira-oncetheregion’smajorculturalsight-wasdestroyed,andtheresortsarenowruinedghosttowns.

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